RICHARD SPEEDY PHOTOGRAPHER
DANCING UNDER THE MOON.
The Sierra Tarahumara of Northern Mexico is named for the people who have lived there for centuries. The Tarahumara to outsiders, in their own language they are the Raramuri, or foot runners. The largest indigenous group north of Mexico City, with the exception of the Navajo, they are also the least affected by the outside world… Perhaps because they can run so fast, so tirelessly far. For hundred’s of years they have run from countless invaders who would reshape their culture and "civilize" their uncommon view of the world they live in, also known as the Las Barrancas del Cobre. The Copper Canyon.
Here, three rivers have cut four massive, gorgeous, or Barranca's, to create a system of 20 interconnecting canyons, dwarfing the Grand Canyon of Arizona and in places more than 6000 feet deep. Within this immense landscape the Raramuri live much like their ancestors, in modified caves and simple stone and timber dwellings, growing their crops and hurting their goats. Many are still nomadic, living in the high country from April to October and wintering in the warmth and lushness of the Barrancas below.
On numerous expeditions with the insightful guidance and invaluable support of Sierra Tarahumara guide “Santiago” James Barnaby I have traveled by foot and horse back to explore and photograph the many layered world that exists here. I have come to love and respect the Raramuri people who embrace their world a few material rewards and cling to a life, rich and tradition, family, and sharing. On countless occasions, I've been treated with curiosity, kindness, and generosity by those who have very little and owe me nothing.
To be in the Sierra Tarahumara is to walk back in time, to witness an ancient culture still surviving within an overwhelming and unparalleled landscape, in places bountiful and mothering and in other places harsh, formidable, and now more than ever, threatened by forces from within and without. Exploitation of resources and environment by outsiders is speeding up and drug violence is on the rise. Sadly, traditions and old ways are disappearing. It is my hope that these images will convey some impression of this fragile world and possibly help to preserve in time the magic that exists here. This magic inhabits every soul, every rock every shadow of this enchanted, majestic land.
Words like, mystical, haunting, formidable, come to mind, but don't describe what it feels like to be here. Vast and overwhelming, this is hollowed ground. Imagine a dozen Grand Canyons if you can then make them deeper..
People have been predicting the demise of the Raramuri for centuries, but through all of this time they have persevered. Now the pressure from outside is stronger than ever. The Raramuri, along with countless other indigenous cultures on our planet are in the direct route of what some call progress, and as a result are disappearing at an alarming rate. The outside world is hungry for the resources that exist within their sacred lands, resources these indigenous people have chosen not to disturb for hundreds or thousands of years. Now, add to this our NEW lust for the resources needed to power AI and cryptocurrency and the picture gets bleaker. With the loss of these ancient civilizations goes a treasury of wisdom and messages from the past that are gone forever….a farewell to the patchwork quilt of cultures that is human evolution. Also go the languages. that have been whispered through the centuries, the songs, the stories, the traditions and dreams. And with all this, perhaps the loss of the great, ancient secrets of survival.
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Project Notes
The work for this project was done over approximately a 10 year span of time from 1996 to 2006. Most excursions were on foot, three on horseback and lasted 2 to 4 weeks. Everything was shot on black-and-white film, mostly 35 mm for the sake of portability. I never photographed in any situation where I was not given explicit permission by the people of the area I was visiting.. Even when given permission there were times when I just didn't feel right and left my camera tucked away. I carry a Polaroid camera with me and always offer Polaroids to my subjects. Some days I shot Polaroids only, no film, as a means of giving without taking. The response from my subjects when they see their image slowly appear in the Polaroid surface is innocent and magical. Their smiles and giggles and looks of wonderment are always touching to watch as many of them rarely see pictures of themselves. I have also returned to areas with enlarged prints whenever possible. On one trip a Raramuri friend was so interested in the picture making process that I left him with my Polaroid camera in its protective bag, several boxes of film and a little book for the photos. When I returned to the same remote area a year later, he couldn't wait to show me his portfolio. He had taken photos of family and friends and some of his favorite places or landmarks. I left him with more film when we said goodbye.
I have always done my work in the Sierra with the utmost of respect and gratitude, but still have wondered if photographing these proud and private people is/was a good idea. My conclusion is that I honor the Raramuri and their ancestors by recording their culture and homeland at this point in time. The outside world can only benefit from knowing that they still exist, that there is another way to live on this planet… simpler, slower and quieter, that living at a 24/7 pace and texting on cell phones that are obsolete in a year is not the only way. Additionally, the outside world can only encourage measures that promote a safer world for threatened cultures if they are enlightened as to what is happening.
None of these images would exist without the helpful guidance, enthusiasm, and friendship of my guide, "Santiago", James Barnaby. Everywhere I traveled in the Sierra Tarahumara I was welcomed because I was his friend. Being with these people, and within this landscape was the passion and love of his life. Unfortunately, he died in a fire a few years ago, and everyone who knew him was dramatically affected by his loss. I will be forever grateful for the privilege of photographing these wonderful people and their mother mountains. The images are my tribute.
Please click on images to enlarge.
